How to. Select Duct, Fittings, Etc. for Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning Systems (HVAC)

Transcription

1 How to Select Duct, Fittings, Etc. for Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning Systems (HVAC)

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3 page 1 INDEX Heating & Cooling - System Components... 2 Plenum... 3 Fishlock Collars & Take-offs... 3 Round Metal Pipe... 4 Rectangular Duct... 4 Comparison (of duct types)... 5 Stack/Riser Duct & Fittings... 5 Oval Pipe, Elbows & Fittings... 6 Round and Rectangular Elbows. 6 Tees and Tee Saddles... 7 Wyes... 7 Reducers and Tapers... 8 Boots... 8 Return Air Kit... 9 Range Hood, Bathroom Fan, and Water Heater Exhaust, and Dryer Venting... 9 Heating/ Cooling Rules of Thumb Glossary of Terms Insulated Flexible Duct Insulated Flexible Duct, Metallic with Plain Ends - Installation Instructions Insulated Flexible Duct, Non-Metallic with Plain Ends - Installation Instructions Diagram - Typical Residential Sheet Metal Layout... Back Cover

4 page 2 W Heating & Cooling - System Components hen designing or installing a heating and air conditioning system, it is important to get to know the system components and the specific job they perform. The majority of residential systems in regions of the country using both heating and cooling, rely on forced air systems. This means they use a motor driven blower to distribute heat and cooled air through the ducting. The system s basic components consist of a furnace unit, a remote air conditioner, the air conditioner coil, metal, or flexible duct, and the registers. These components work together to maintain and treat air for the comfort of individuals within a specific area. Systems use different fueling alternatives such as gas, oil, or electricity. Their configurations include such terms as horizontal flow, upflow (low-boy or high-boy), and downflow. When supplying air above the unit, as in a basement, a low-boy or highboy is used. Horizontal equipment is best suited for installations in attics or crawl spaces. Downflow systems are usually installed in utility rooms, garages, closets or crawl spaces. Alternative equipment is also available such as solar powered heat pumps or evaporative coolers. A system should be designed using several factors, including climate, type of structure, energy costs, availability, and consumer preference. According to the Sheet Metal and Air Conditioning Contractors National Association (SMACNA), certain determinations must be made when designing a system. Selecting equipment. Determine how much air will be needed for each room or space to be cooled or heated (the air quantity selected should be the greater of the heating and cooling requirements). Determine the number of supply outlets needed for each space giving consideration to discharge velocity, spread, throw, terminal velocity. occupancy patterns, location of heat gain or loss sources, and register or diffuser design. Determine the return system type, the availability of space for the grilles, the filtering system, maximum velocity limitations for sound, efficient filtration velocity and space use limitations. There is no way to use a packaged system of ducting for every house. Even houses that are around the same size may require different fittings, or lengths of certain products. When designing the system, map out a possible route of travel and check to see if there are any difficult angles to maneuver. When building from scratch, plan carefully to route air efficiently to an area. Always remember... This is not a do-it-yourself project, always consult trained, acredited contractors and designers. Certain fittings and too many turns in a system restrict air flow. Too large or too small of a fitting can restrict efficient air flow. Know what size furnace you will be using before you choose pipe sizes. When branching, always reduce the size of the line either at or immediately following the branch to ensure proper air flow. An outlet near the blower (furnace) needs no more pressure than an outlet further down the line. Therefore, it is necessary to find ways to equalize the entire system. Dampers can be used to balance the system and proper selection of pipe sizes (relative to CFM flow) will channel air more efficiently. Placement of the registers is important for proper cooling and heating in different climates. In cooler climates: The supply register should be located on the floor near the outer wall, preferably under a window, in order to blanket the cold areas and counteract the drafts. This method is called a perimeter system and is more common in cooler areas. In warmer climates: The supply registers should be located high on an inner wall or on the ceiling. This should prove more efficient in keeping the temperature cooler.

5 Plenum Fishlock Collars & Take-offs page 3 FURNACE Fishlock collars and take-offs are cut into the plenum or rectangular duct and are used to begin trunkline or branchline runs. They are available round or rectangular in a variety of sizes. The main difference between a fishlock collar and a take-off is the angle to which the transition leads. Most fishlock collars lead off a flat surface to a 90 degree angle with that surface. Takeoffs, in most cases, achieve an angle during the transition. Rectangular to round take-offs usually mount on the top of the plenum. Rectangular take-offs and round fishlock collars usually mount on the sides. he first fitting of any system is the plenum. The plenum is T used as a chamber to mix air directly from the furnace before sending it through the system. It also provides a surface area for take-offs and fishlock collars to be attached. Plenums are usually shipped knocked down and require assembly of 4 sides and a top using a snap or button lock system or cleats. For more information about assembly, see the installation instructions in this manual. Always remember... CORRECT AIR FLOW When mounting on the side of the plenum, it is best to mount the collar 6" below the top of the plenum to ensure proper mixing of the air. If a fitting has an angled connection on it, make certain that it is installed to WRONG allow for correct air flow. AIR FLOW TO INSTALL: Onto any surface, first mark off the proper opening size of the collar. Next, pierce the metal surface using a drill or sharp tool and use snips to cut opening. Then, insert collar into opening and fold down tabs inside. Finally, secure with sheet metal screws and seal with duct tape.

6 page 4 Round Metal Pipe Rectangular Duct ound pipe can be used as a Rmain trunkline or branchline, as well as for return air applications. It maintains the most efficient characteristics for airflow and is commonly used throughout the country. Round pipe is also used in conjunction with items such as range hoods, dryers, bathroom fan exhausts, and water heaters. Normally round pipe is shipped in bundles because of its excellent nesting ability. Different styles of assembly are available such as button or snap lock. Don Park Inc. uses the snap lock design which provides a stable lock and is easy to assemble. Common usage size chart: APPLICATION MOST COMMON SIZE USED Heating/Air Conditioning 4" - 16" Bath Fans 3" - 4" Range Hoods 5" - 7" Dryers 3" - 4" Water Heaters 3" - 4" * Check local building codes In your area. In some cases only double wall pipe can be used for venting this product. Double wall must always be used when passing through a wall or into an attic. PRIMARY USE: Used as a main trunkline run for system applications. ectangular duct is used in the same way as round pipe for main trunkline runs. RAs with round pipe, rectangular duct first comes off the plenum with a starting collar or take-off. Sizes offered mount easily on to any side of the plenum: (8" x 8"), (8" x 10"), (8" x 12"), (8" x 14"), (8" x 16"), (8" x 18"), (8" x 20"), and (8" x 22"). Rectangular duct is used as a space saver and can be easily routed in overhead space between floor joists or in an attic. Normally, rectangular duct does not move air directly to a boot. Instead, branches come off of the main duct run and move air to its destination. This is most commonly done with a starting collar or take-off and round pipe or flexible duct. In doing this, the ends of the rectangular duct need to be blocked off. This is done with a rectangular block end. In assembly, the L-shaped pieces are connected together using various methods. Rectangular duct is connected using the snaplock system. Next, these five-foot sections are put together with the use of S and Drive Cleats to form longer runs of duct. S CLEAT S and Drive Cleats are sleeves of DRIVE CLEAT metal that help assemble the top and bottom sides ( S ) plus left and right sides (Drive) of the duct run. Drive cleats are typically 2" longer than the section to be secured. The extra 1" on each side is bent over to secure. NOTE: Rectangular stack or riser duct is covered on page 16 (this section). Stack duct is used for between wall runs for routing air up or down a wall, or to a second or third floor of a home. It is also used for range hood installations. (see page 33 in Other Applications section) Stack or riser duct has a 3-1/4" or 2-1/4" dimension to ensure proper spacing in a 2 x 4 stud wall. Oval pipe and fittings are an acceptable alternative to stack duct. Don Park Inc. offers 100-inch lengths of oval for two story applications. Oval pipe is a snaplock system similar to round pipe.

7 COMPARISON ound metal pipe, oval metal pipe, rectangular duct and insulated flexible duct Rcan all be used in a heating and air conditioning system. Due to the fact that they were all designed for a particular application, they all have different strengths and weaknesses. The following is a listing of some of the pros and cons. ROUND AND OVAL METAL PIPE RECTANGULAR DUCT PROS 1. Excellent air flow characteristics. 2. Longer lasting than flexible duct. 1. Space saver. Can utilize unused space between floor studs. 2. Longer lasting than flexible duct. CONS 1. If required, insulation must be installed. 1. If required, insulation must be installed. Stack or Riser Duct & Fittings S page 5 ome house construction requires the use of inner wall ducting. A common product used STACK BOOT in between wall runs is stack or riser duct. The most common size is 3-1/4" by 10". This same ducting is also common in range hood exhaust (3-1/4" x 10" wall vents are extremely popular). Certain accessories are needed to route this duct, such as stack or riser boots. Resembling register boxes, boots have the same dimensions as stack duct and make the transition to round pipe or flexible duct in order to DUCT STACK (RISER) attach to the main branch line. In the other direction, stack or riser boots are the final fitting used to get to the register. These make the transition from the stack duct dimension to the register dimensions such as (10" x 4"), (12" x 6"), or (14" x 6"). Another product used for between wall runs is oval pipe and fittings, which provides a rounded surface for smoother air flow. INSULATED FLEXIBLE DUCT 1. Thermal characteristics, pre-insulated. 2. Ease of installation. 3. Reduced installation labour, especially when insulation is required. 4. Eliminates the need for some fittings, such as elbows 1. Not as long lasting as galvanized metal pipe or rectangular duct. 2. Some reduction in air flow characteristics versus metal. 3. Care must be taken when installing to avoid reduction of air flow (must be fully extended, cannot make sharp bends). TO INSTALL: To join two sections of stack ducting together optional cleats can be used to secure the long section of the duct. Sheet metal screws should be applied on the shorter sides of the ducting and if needed can also be utilized on the longer dimension. Duct tape should be used to seal the seams. The same care should be taken when connecting with the stack heads or boots. ANGLE BOOT UNIVERSIAL BOOT

8 page 6 Oval Pipe, Elbows & Fittings Round or Rectangular Elbows F or an alternative to rectangular duct, oval pipe may be used. A full range of horizontal and vertical elbows as well as stackheads and oval to round transitions are manufactured by Don Park Inc. W hen routing a pipe or duct run through a turn, the most common fitting used is an elbow. Elbows are made in a variety of styles including round adjustable, rectangular, oval and die-formed. These fittings are available in different angles, the most common of which is the 90 degree. ADJUSTABLE 90 ELBOW SHORT WAY RECTANGULAR 90 ELBOW LONG WAY Always remember... A 90 degree round adjustable elbow can be adjusted to make any angle 0 through 90 degrees. Rectangular elbows, because they are not adjustable, are available as a long way (which changes the direction of the long dimension), and a short way (which changes the direction of the short dimension). 90 degree rectangular elbows can be cut to form any smaller angle needed. (Also available in 45 degree configurations.) TO INSTALL: Round elbows: Adjust to desired angle. Insert the pre-crimped end of the elbow to move with the direction of air flow. Install and secure with sheet metal screws and seal with duct tape. Rectangular elbows: Like rectangular ducting, you can use S cleats to attach the long sides and drive cleats for the short sides. However, for stack or riser duct elbows, the shorts can be attached with sheet metal screws. Normally all sides can be attached with sheet metal screws and sealed with duct tape.

9 Tees or Tee Saddles Wyes page 7 O ne way to branch a round pipe is with the use of a tee TEE or tee saddle. Unlike a wye which moves off at a smoother angle, a tee or tee saddle branches the line TEE at a 90 degree angle. Reducing SADDLE tees are available, however, tees are normally the same dimensions (6" x 6" x 6", etc.) and usually do not reduce; therefore, it is important to add a reducer after the branch to ensure proper air velocity. Tee saddles are an excellent consumer or retro item. Using this fitting, the installer can tap into the existing system to add another branch for a room addition or a room that does not have conditioned air. The tee saddle mounts by cutting the appropriate size opening into the branch line and slipping over that opening. Like the tees and tee saddles, wyes are used for branching a main or branch line. Normally, the angle of a wye is more smooth than that of a tee but there is no one angle used. Wye AIR FLOW fittings commonly reduce, however, some may require a reducer to ensure proper air flow. Different variations of wyes include the full flow wye, bullhead, and wye branch or stub wye. Don Park Inc. currently provides the wye branch or stub wye because of its usefulness in a variety of applications. NOTE: Air flow from a tee saddle is not as great as from a wye. NOTE: 90 deg. tee saddles can be made from standard tees as shown: 1. Cut back of tee with tin snips. 2. Spread tee mount over location of splice, trace hole on pipe. 3. Remove tee over hole and seal in place with duct tape. BULLHEAD FULL FLOW TO INSTALL: First notice that the take-off and straight pipe are already crimped to fit into the branching pipes. Install all sides and secure in all locations with sheet metal screws. Then secure all seams with duct tape to ensure minimum air loss. TO INSTALL: Crimp the correct side of product to move with the direction of air flow. Install, secure with sheet metal screws, and seal with duct tape.

10 page 8 Reducers and Tapers Boots In order to achieve a constant air flow throughout the system, it is important to reduce the size of the line as it is branched. Reducers can be round or rectangular and in any size, although they commonly reduce in 1" to 2" increments (round) or 2" to 4" increments of width (rectangular). Universal reducers can also increase. The determining factor is which side of the product is crimped. The crimp is made in the direction of air flow. For example, a true reducer is crimped on the smaller side and a true increaser is crimped on the larger side. RECTANGULAR REDUCER ROUND REDUCER The final fitting to move air to its destination is the boot. Due to the numerous locations and difficult areas registers must fit, boots are available in three varieties: 1. Universal 2. Angle 3. End 1. UNIVERSAL All three are available In common register sizes. Placement of the supply register and return register is extremely important to ensure a pleasant room temperature. 3. END 2. ANGLE TO INSTALL: Crimp the correct side of the product to follow air flow, slip into or over the next fitting and secure with sheet metal screws. To ensure efficiency, use duct tape to seal seams. Always remember... IN COOLER CLIMATES the supply register should be located on the floor near the outer wall. preferably under a window, in order to blanket the cold areas and counteract the drafts. This method is called a perimeter system and is more common in cooler areas. IN WARMER CLIMATES the supply registers should be located high on an inner wall or on the ceiling. This should prove more efficient in keeping the temperature cooler.

11 Return Air Kit In most cases return air is just as important as supply air for proper circulation. In areas of the country where basements are common a drop air kit is often used for returning air through the system. It provides all the material needed to move air from a main collecting area into the furnace. In houses where air can easily circulate to one location, a central return is adequate. In two story dwellings or long ranch designs, a more efficient, yet more expensive system routes air through separate piping from individual rooms back to a collecting chamber and back through the system. Return air kits normally enclose the air filter. FURNACE Range Hood, Bathroom Fan, and Water Heater Exhaust, and Dryer Venting page 9 M any of the fittings offered by Don Park s product line can be used in several different applications beyond heating and air conditioning. Three uses for these products are for the venting of dryers, bathroom fans, and water heaters. RANGE HOOD EXHAUST: Ducting components are essential in the venting of ducted range hoods. Most companies use the same items in venting their products. The most popular sizes for these exhausts are: (3-1/4" x 10" x 5"), (3-1/4" x 10" x 6") and (3-1/4" x 10" x 7"). BATHROOM FANS: Sometimes these require venting through the use of piping. Here again these can be vented with round pipe and elbows as well as wall vents, roof flashing and vent caps. WATER HEATER EXHAUSTS: Elbows, piping and roof flashing are items that also be used for venting water heaters. However, be sure to check your local building codes as some areas only allow double wall piping. It is true that in a cases the single wall pipe cannot be used to vent a water heater once the pip enters into a closed off area such as wall space or into an attic. DRYER VENTING: Although certainly not exclusively, dryers can be vented by using a combination of items including round pipe and adjustable elbows. The same pipes can be vented using wall vents or up through the roof using roof flashing and vent caps. In some areas of the country, fire-retardant material has become code for the installation of dryer venting and bathroom fans. For this reason, piping, which not catch on fire, makes an excellent alternative to flexible venting.

12 page 10 Heating / Cooling Rules of Thumb AN EFFICIENT RESIDENTIAL HEATING/COOLING SYSTEM WILL: Move heated/cooled air At the proper velocity In the proper quantity To each area or room Enter the room at the proper location AIR SHOULD TRAVEL FROM THE FURNACE/AIR CONDITIONER THROUGH THE SYSTEM AT AN AVERAGE VELOCITY OF APPROXIMATELY 700 FT/MIN. THROUGHOUT THE SYSTEM. ON AVERAGE, MOST SYSTEM RESISTANCE TO AIR FLOW IS APPROXI- MATELY.08 (.075) STATIC PRESSURE (.10 SUPPLY AIR,.O5 RETUR AIR). AIR MOVING TOO FAST: Creates uncomfortable drafts; May overwork the furnace/air conditioner; Makes more noise as it comes through the system. AIR MOVING TOO SLOW: Will not have enough speed to be thrown across the room or up the wall to do a proper job of heating/cooling. ASSUMING AN AIR VELOCITY OF APPROXIMATELY 700 FT/MIN., AIR CON- DITIONERS ARE DESIGNED TO MOVE 400 CFMs PER TON, AND 12 CFMs/1000 AN AVERAGE SYSTEM AIR VELOCITY OF 700 FT/MIN., ROUND PIPE, INSULATED FLEXIBLE DUCT, OR RECTANGULAR DUCT WILL CARRY APPROXIMATELY THE FOLLOWING CFM AT.08 OF STATIC PRESSURE (FRICTION): DIMENSIONS APPROX. CFM SQ. IN. 4" Round " Round " Round /4" x 10" /4" x 12" /4" x 10" /4" x 12" " Round /4" x 13" " Round " x 8" " Round " Round " x 8" " Round " x 8" " Round " Round 1, " x 8" 1, IN GENERAL, 1 CFM OF AIR IS REQUIRED TO HEAT OR COOL 1 OR 11/4 SQ. FT. OF FLOOR AREA TYING THESE 3 Rules Of Thumb TOGETHER, FURNACE, AIR CONDITIONING UNITS SHOULD BE MATCHED TO SQUARE FOOTAGE OF FLOOR SPACE, READY TO DISTRIBUTE A SET AMOUNT OF AIR (MEASURED IN CFM) TO THE LIVING AREA VIA THE AIR DUCTING SYSTEM. SQ. FT. OF FURNACE AIR CONDITIONER CFM OF FLOOR AREA BTUs TONNAGE AIR MOVEMENT ,000 1 ton ,000 2 ton 800 1, ,000 3 ton 1,200 1, ,000 4 ton 1,600 2, ,000 5 ton 2,000 Do not use the above listing as a guide to pick out your home system. These numbers are meant as examples only. There are variables such as furnace efficiency and geographic location to be figured into your individual needs. Please consult a professional installer. 30' 30' 1,200 SQ. FT. LIVING AREA 12" ROUND 12" ROUND 1,200 SQ. FT. LIVING AREA 8" ROUND 8" ROUND 40' (600 CFM FOR 600 SQ. FT. SPACE) 10" ROUND 10" ROUND 40' 200 CFM FOR 200 SQ. FT. SPACE (400 CFM FOR 400 SQ. FT. SPACE) Now that you re ready to come off the furnace/air conditioner plenum and lay out a system... Let s say you have 1,200 sq. ft. of space to heat/cool, matched up with 100,000 BTU furnace/3 ton air conditioner... Come off the plenum with 1,200 CFM worth of pipe capacity. Two 600 CFM each = 1,200 Three 400 CFM each = 1,200 Six 200 CFM each = 1,200 Two 400 CFM each + Two 200 CFM each = 1, with the proper capacity running toward each living area. Continued over...

13 Now that you ve come off the plenum with the proper CFM, you can begin branching the main trunklines into smaller lines to run into the various rooms... always keeping a constant rate of air flow (CFM). To do this, whenever you branch, you must also reduce (properly) to maintain a constant air flow. 12" ROUND (600 CFM) 600 CFM 10" ROUND (400 CFM) 8" ROUND (200 CFM) WYE branches commonly reduce. 8" ROUND (200 CFM) 8" ROUND (200 CFM) 6" ROUND (100 CFM) 6" ROUND (100 CFM) 600 CFM 600 CFM TEES do not reduce, and the appropriate reducer must be added. TEE SADDLES may or may not reduce depending on the model. Glossary of Terms BLOCK ENDS Block ends are used to terminate or block off a run of pipe or rectangular duct. BOOTS - ANGLE A different variation of a universal boot is the 90 degree angle boot used in the same way, however, as the name dictates, a 90 degree turn is made with the product. BOOTS - END A popular boot used in situations where the opening in the floor runs parallel to the floor joists and header BOOTS - UNIVERSAL This boot is one of many variations that can be used for the final fitting to move air into a room. Universals are also known as straight boots because there are no turns provided. These boots are attached to a pipe run to supply a particular area with air. A different variation of a universal register box is a 90 degree angle boot used in the same way, however, as the name dictates, a 90 degree turn is made with the product. BRANCH LINE Normally refers to the secondary runs of ducting that extend from the trunkline and run to the registers. BUTTON-LOCK A descriptive term for a type of locking system used to assemble piping. Dimples or buttons are punched into the metal on one side and a seam is made onto the other to receive the button. DRIVE CLEAT S CLEAT CLEATS S cleats are used to attach rectangular sections of duct together on the long side. Drive Cleats are used to hold the rectangular duct sections together on the short side. CRIMPING Pressing metal into small folds or bends in order to decrease the pipe diameter and allow it to fit into like-sized pipe for a secure fit. DAMPERS page 11

14 page 12 Glossary of Terms Used to regulate the amount of air moving into any branch or duct section in a system. In some instances you may come across a hot spot or cold spot in a house, but by adjusting or installing a damper you can sometimes economically correct the problem. DOWNFLOW UNIT A furnace unit where the return air is brought into the unit from the top and circulates down and through the unit. DUCT STRAPS For securing runs of flexible or rigid ducts to prevent sagging or air loss. It is also used to connect flex duct. ELBOWS - RECTANGULAR These elbows are used to make turns in rectangular duct runs. Rectangular elbows can be either a shortway or longway elbow. A shortway elbow provides the turn along the short side, and is also known as a vertical elbow. A longway elbow provides the turn along the width of the stack (or long side), and is also known as a horizontal or flat elbow. ELBOWS - ROUND ADJUSTABLE Elbows are used to route branch piping to various areas. If a 90 degree turn is required a 90 degree elbow is used. There are also 45 degree elbows, also known as angles, used to produce a 45 degree turn. NOTE: Round 90 degree elbows can be used for any turn from 0 degree to 90 degree. FISHLOCK COLLARS Used to start a branch off of the plenum, flat surface, or a rectangular run of ductwork A hole is cut into the plenum or rectangular duct and the starting collar inserted. Next, the tabs are folded inside to secure. HORIZONTAL FLOW UNIT A furnace unit normally installed in an attic or crawl space where the system air passes horizontally through the unit to be cleaned and conditioned. INSULATED FLEXIBLE DUCT Used for main trunkline runs, or a branch ducting. It is available in a variety of sizes, insulation thicknesses, and specifications. (See Insulated Flexible Duct section for details.) JOIST LINING Joist lining is used to seal the underside of the joist space. This space is used as a run of duct, usually to channel air back through the return air system. The width (16") is equal to the distance of joist spacing therefore enabling the panning to be nailed or screwed directly onto the wood. It is raw on one end and has an S Cleat on the other to provide an airtight fit. This is done to utilize space and save on materials to install a duct run. PIPE - ROUND - METAL Typically used for trunklines and branch runs. It is usually made in 2 ft., 3 ft., and 5 ft. lengths. PIPE - OVAL Used for between wall runs to move air to a second floor or to a register located high on a wall. Provides a smoother surface for more efficient air flow. PLENUM The plenum is the central collecting chamber for the conditioned air leaving the furnace or air conditioning unit. The plenum should be as large as the supply air outlet and as high as possible to permit mixing of the supply air before it enters the system. PIenums are manufactured in several sizes and styles including fixed and adjustable. Adjustable models can be trimmed to size. They are fastened with sheet metal screws or S clips. R-VALUE Defined as the maximum resistance to heat flow. The R-value indicates the products amount of insulating value. Therefore, the higher the R-value, the higher the insulation value. RECTANGULAR DUCT Typically used for trunklines and branch runs as an alternate to round pipe or flexible duct for space restricted areas. Makes good use of overhead space. Preferred in the northeast and northwest. (See Rectangular Duct section for details.) REDUCERS Reducers are used to decrease pipe size while leading to the final destination of the run. These are available for round pipe and rectangular duct. Round reducers typically decrease in 1" or 2" diameters and rectangular reducers typically decrease 2" or 4" in width. However any reduction is possible. Reducers are sometimes called increasers. The determining factor for an item to be called a true reducer or true increaser is which side of the product is crimped. It is always crimped in the direction of air flow. AIR FLOW TRUE REDUCER TRUE INCREASER RETURN AIR KIT A return air inlet to the furnace to circulate air through the house. It is installed down from the main floor into the basement, crawl space, etc. It consists of a

15 starting collar, rectangular duct, cold air return boot, and cleats. RISER DUCT (See STACK DUCT) WYE AIR FLOW Continued over... ROOF FLASHINGS WITH TAPERED STACK Used as boot flashing around pipes extending through the root. Can be used to receive vent exhausts from kitchen and bath tans, etc. Root flashing with vent or wagon caps is another variation that can also be used for attic ventilation and protection from rain, snow, and debris. SNAPLOCK A descriptive term for a type of locking system used to assemble piping. This method is one of the most common used in the industry today. STACK BOOTS When running a section of rectangular stack duct (riser duct) inside a wall, these items make the transition from pipe or flex duct to the rectangular stack duct. They are made with an S cleat built in for ease of installation. These come in other variations including a 90 degree boot and end stack boot, and are used to join sidewall registers to rectangular stack duct supply systems. STACK DUCT (RISER DUCT) - RECTANGULAR Used for branch runs to fit between joists within a wail. Permits the routing of branch runs to second floors in multi-story homes without using up valuable closet space. Can be used as rectangular duct, however rectangular duct cannot be used as stack duct because standard rectangular duct cannot fit within a wall. STORM COLLARS Used as flashing around an existing roof pipe. It is recommended that these be sealed down to both the pipe and roof. It is intended to deflect wind, water, and debris. TAKE-OFFS Take-offs are used much in the same way as a starting collar. They can be used to route air off any side of the plenum or used as a transition off of a rectangular pipe run. Different configurations are used to provide the lowest resistance and the largest selection to fit any application, including top take-off and side take-off. TEES These fittings are used on round pipe or flexible duct runs in order to make a 90 degree branch while continuing the main run. TEE SADDLES A tee fitting with no bottom half. It fits over a section of round pipe. The installer cuts a hole in the round pipe the size of the tee saddle take off and secures the saddle over that hole. (See catalog for details.) WYES 5" 8" 8" = MODEL NO.: 8x8x5 Insulated Flexible Duct PRIMARY USE: Used for main trunkline runs, or as branch ducting. CORE: FULL CONTINUOUS INNER CORE SHIELDS FIBERGLASS FROM EROSION. PURPOSE: WIRE HELIX INSULATION: THICK, CONTINUOUS BLANKET OF GLASS FIBER INSULATION. SCRIM: PROTECTS INSULATION AND PROMOTES DURABILITY. page 13 Flexible duct is available in a variety of sizes, insulation thicknesses, and specifications. It is comprised of a vapor barrier, scrim, insulation, and an inner core with a wire helix. VAPOR BARRIER VAPOR BARRIER: This is a jacket or sleeve that encloses the product. Its purpose is to hold in, and protect the insulation and inner core, as well as shield the insides from ultraviolet light. It is available with a polyethylene jacket, a metalized jacket for greater strength and tear resistance, or a polyethylene jacket for outdoor use. SCRIM: This is a high tensile, fiberglass mesh that wraps around the insulation in order to give more protection and durability to the product. It was originally developed to hold the insulation in place in order to prolong fire from reaching the system s inner core. In some instances, scrim is woven into the jacket or the core of the flexible duct. To receive U.L./U.L.C. approval as insulated flexible duct, all flexible duct must have scrim. INSULATION: This layer is made up of a fiberglass blanket, varying in thickness depending on the R-value the product is trying to attain. Some jurisdictions have adopted energy codes for flexible duct that require certain R-values for code approval. A basic requirement is an R-value of 4.3. CORE: This is the center of the insulated flexible duct system. Although some flexible duct designs differ between manufacturers, it is commonly two plies of a polyester film which encapsulates the wire helix. The purpose of the helix is to help flexible duct keep its shape. Specially designed insulated flexible duct is also available for mobile home use. The basic difference is a heavier jacket for greater resistance to animal entry in below-home uses.

16 page 14 INSTALLATION CAUTIONS & TIPS Insulated flexible duct must be fully extended when installed to maximize air flow, as well as cost per lineal foot. Insulated Flexible Duct Metallic with Plain Ends INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS Connections and Splices 1. Fold back jacket and insulation exposing core. Trim core ends squarely using suitable metal shears. Determine optional sealing methods (steps 2 or 5) before proceeding. 4. Secure to collar/sleeve using #8 sheet metal screws, spacing equally around circumference. Use 3 screws for diameters under 12" and 5 screws for diameters 12" and over. Avoid abrupt turns. When a sharp turn is necessary, cut the insulated flex duct at the turn, and splice in a 90 degree adjustable galvanized elbow of the same diameter to make the turn. Do not use joists or other supports as points to wrap around. This will restrict the air flow. When hanging flexible duct, supports must be used both for vertical runs and horizontal runs. Vertically, supports may be no more than 6 feet apart. Horizontally, supports may be no more than 5 feet apart with a maximum sag of 1/2" per foot. When laying flexible duct, surplus lengths shall not be used to plan for future use. Doing this will cause a loss in air flow efficiency. Although most plastic jackets today include UV inhibitors, insulated flexible duct should be covered when installed in areas that have either direct or ambient sunlight. This will increase the life of the product. 2. When sealants are required and for pressures 4 w.g. and over, seal joint using approved duct sealant applied outside of collar/sleeve. (Disregard this step when not using sealants.) 3. Slide at least 1" of core over metal collar for attaching duct to take off or over ends of a metal sleeve for splicing 2 lengths of duct. 5. For pressures under 4" w.g. seal joint using 2 wraps of approved duct tape applied over screw heads and spirally lapping tape to collar/sleeve. (Disregard this step when using sealants per step 2.) 6. Pull jacket and insulation back over core. Tape jacket with 2 wraps of approved duct tape. An approved clamp may be used in place of tape. Not to be used for range hood installations (grease collection) or water heater exhaust (code). Metal pipe and fittings only are suitable for these types of applications. NOTE: For uninsulated air ducts and air connectors, disregard references to insulation jacket. See manufacturer s UL 181 installation instructions for approved tapes, clamps and sealants. For ducts with special end treatments, e.g. crimped ends, factory installed fittings, etc., see manufacturer s installation instructions.

17 page Insulated Flexible Duct 15 Non-Metallic with Plain Ends INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS INSTALLATION CAUTIONS & TIPS Insulated flexible duct must be fully extended when installed to maximize air flow, as well as cost per lineal foot. Connections 1. After desired length is determined, cut completely around and through duct with knife or scissors. Cut wire with snips or side cutters. Splices 1. Peel back jacket and insulation from core. Butt two cores together on a standard 4" metal sleeve. Avoid abrupt turns. When a sharp turn is necessary, cut the insulated flex duct at the turn, and splice in a 90 degree adjustable galvanized elbow of the same diameter to make the turn. Do not use joists or other supports as points to wrap around. This will restrict the air flow. When hanging flexible duct, supports must be used both for vertical runs and horizontal runs. Vertically, supports may be no more than 6 feet apart. Horizontally, supports may be no more than 5 feet apart with a maximum sag of 1/2" per foot. 2. Pull back jacket and insulation from core. Slide at least 1" of core over collar, pipe or fitting. Tape with at least 2 wraps of approved duct tape. Secure with approved clamp. 2. Tape core together with at least 2 wraps of approved duct tape. Secure with 2 approved clamps. When laying flexible duct, surplus lengths shall not be used to plan for future use. Doing this will cause a loss in air flow efficiency. Although most plastic jackets today include UV inhibitors, insulated flexible duct should be covered when installed in areas that have either direct or ambient sunlight. This will increase the life of the product. 3. Pull jacket and insulation back over core. Tape jacket with 2 wraps of approved duct tape. An approved clamp may be used in place of or in combination with the duct tape. 3. Pull jacket and insulation back over cores. Tape jackets together with 2 wraps of approved duct tape. Not to be used for range hood installations (grease collection) or water heater exhaust (code). Metal pipe and fittings only are suitable for these types of applications. NOTE: For non-insulated air connectors, disregard references to insulation and jacket. See manufacturers UL 181 installation instructions for approved tape and clamps. Use beaded fittings for pressures exceeding 4" w.g. and for diameters 12" and larger. For ducts with special end treatments, e.g. factory installed fittings, etc., see manufacturer s installation instructions.

18 Typical Residential Sheet Metal Layout

19 Comment choisir des gaines, des raccords, etc. pour des systèmes de chauffage, de ventilation et de climatisation (CVCA)

20

21 page 1 TABLE DES MATIÈRES Chauffage et climatisation - pièces du système...2 Plénum...3 Collets dentelés et prises...3 Tuyau de métal rond...4 Gaine rectangulaire...4 Comparaison (de types de gaine)...5 Gaine verticale/montante et raccords...5 Tuyaux, coudes et raccords ovales...6 Coudes ronds et rectangulaires...6 Conduits et sellettes en «T»...7 Conduits en «Y»...7 Réducteurs et raccords réducteurs...8 Sorties...8 Ensemble de reprise de l air...9 Hotte de cuisinière, ventilateur de salle de bain, sortie de chauffe-eau et ventilation de sécheuse...9 «Règles générales» du chauffage et de la climatisation Glossaire Conduit flexible isolé...13 Instructions d installation de conduit flexible isolé en métal aux extrémités lisses...14 Instructions d'installation de conduit flexible isolé non métallique aux extrémités lisses...15 Schéma typique pour les résidences Schéma de tôlerie... Couverture arrière

22 page 2 Chauffage et climatisation - pièces du système Lorsque vous concevez ou installez un système de chauffage et de climatisation, il est important de vous familiariser avec les pièces du système et la fonction particulière de chaque pièce. La majorité des systèmes résidentiels dans les régions du pays qui utilisent le chauffage et la climatisation, sont des systèmes à air pulsé, aussi appelés systèmes à air forcé. Ceci signifie qu ils utilisent un ventilateur motorisé pour diffuser de la chaleur et de l air refroidi à travers les conduits. Les composantes fondamentales du système sont : un générateur de chaleur, un climatiseur périphérique, un serpentin de climatiseur, des conduits de métal ou flexibles et des grilles à registre. Prises dans leur ensemble, ces composantes entretiennent et traitent l air pour le confort des gens dans une zone particulière. Plusieurs options de combustible sont disponibles pour alimenter ces systèmes tels le gaz, l huile ou l électricité. Les configurations typiques de systèmes comprennent des termes tels la circulation horizontale, ascendante (caissons juxtaposés ou superposés) ou descendante. Lorsque vous diffusez de l air au-dessus du générateur, comme dans un sous-sol par exemple, il faut utiliser des caissons juxtaposés ou superposés. L équipement horizontal convient mieux aux installations dans les greniers ou les vides sanitaires. Les systèmes à circulation descendante sont habituellement installés dans les pièces de service, les garages, les garde-robes ou les vides sanitaires. D autres possibilités s offrent à vous si vous êtes intéressés par du matériel tel des thermopompes solaires ou des refroidisseurs à évaporation. L élaboration d un système doit tenir compte de plusieurs facteurs, y compris le climat, le type de bâtiment, les coûts énergétiques, la disponibilité de cette énergie et la préférence des clients. Selon la Sheet Metal and Air Conditioning Contractors National Association (SMACNA), certaines décisions doivent être prises à l étape de la conception du système. Le choix de l équipement. Il faut déterminer le débit d air nécessaire dans chacune des pièces ou espaces à refroidir ou chauffer (la quantité d air sélectionnée doit être la quantité d air froid ou d air chaud requis). Il faut déterminer la quantité de prises d air requises pour chaque espace en tenant compte de la vélocité de soufflage, de l étalement, de la portée, de la vitesse terminale, des tendances d occupation, de l emplacement des sources d apport ou de perte de chaleur ainsi que de la conception des grilles à registre ou des diffuseurs d air. Il faut également déterminer le type du réseau de reprise de l air, la disponibilité d espace pour les grilles à air, le système de filtrage, les limites de la vélocité maximale (pour le son), la vélocité efficace de la filtration et les restrictions d espace. Il n est tout simplement pas possible de se procurer un ensemble préemballé de conduits qui conviendrait à toutes les maisons. Même les maisons de taille similaire peuvent nécessiter de différents raccords ou des composantes de différentes longueurs. Lorsque vous concevez le système, faites un schéma de la voie à emprunter et vérifiez s il y a des angles de manœuvre difficiles. Lorsque vous construisez un système de bout en bout, planifiez-le soigneusement afin d acheminer l air vers une zone avec le plus d efficacité possible. N oubliez pas... Ce projet n est pas un projet de bricoleurs, consultez toujours des entrepreneurs et concepteurs formés et agréés. Certains raccords et des virages excessifs dans un système limitent le débit d air. Un raccord trop grand ou trop petit peut limiter le rendement du débit d air. Assurez-vous de connaître les dimensions du générateur de chaleur que vous allez utiliser avant de choisir la taille des tuyaux. Lorsque vous faites une bifurcation, diminuez toujours la taille de la canalisation directement sur le branchement ou immédiatement après, afin d assurer un bon débit d air. Une prise près du ventilateur (générateur de chaleur) ne nécessite pas davantage de pression qu une prise située plus loin sur le système. C est pourquoi il est nécessaire de trouver des façons d équilibrer tout le système. Ainsi, vous pouvez utiliser des clapets pour équilibrer le système et un choix judicieux de la taille des tuyaux (quant au débit d air en PCM) canalisera l air de façon plus efficace. Selon le climat, l emplacement des registres est important à une climatisation et à un chauffage efficaces. Dans des climats plus froids : Les registres d air devraient être situés sur le plancher près du mur extérieur, de préférence sous une fenêtre, afin de couvrir les zones froides et neutraliser les courants d air. On appelle cette méthode, plus commune dans les climats plus froids, un système périphérique. Dans des climats plus chauds : Les registres d air devraient être situés sur la partie supérieure d un mur intérieur ou au plafond. Cette méthode est généralement plus efficace pour maintenir une température plus fraîche.

23 Plénum Collets dentelés et prises page 3 GÉNÉRATEUR DE CHALEUR Le premier raccord de tout système est le plénum. Le plénum agit comme chambre à air pour mélanger l air directement à partir du générateur de chaleur avant son acheminement dans le système. On peut également l utiliser comme surface de contact à laquelle on fixe les prises et les collets dentelés. Les plénums sont habituellement expédiés en pièces démontées. Il faut assembler les quatre côtés et la partie supérieure à l aide d un dispositif à boutons-pression ou par enclenchement ou avec des clavettes. Pour obtenir de plus amples renseignements sur l assemblage, consultez les directives d installation dans ce manuel. Les collets dentelés et les prises sont installés à même le plénum ou la gaine rectangulaire et servent à démarrer un tronçon de conduit principal ou un tronçon d embranchement. Ils sont disponibles en format rond ou rectangulaire dans une variété de dimensions. La principale différence entre le collet dentelé et la prise est l angle vers lequel la transition mène. La plupart des collets dentelés partent d une surface plane à un angle de 90º. Les prises, dans la plupart des cas, créent un angle pendant la transition. Les prises rectangulaires devenant rondes s installent habituellement sur le dessus du plénum. Les prises rectangulaires et les collets dentelés ronds s installent habituellement sur les côtés. BON N oubliez pas... DÉBIT D AIR Lorsque vous effectuez une installation sur le côté du plénum, il est préférable d installer le collet à 6 Po. (15,25 cm) en dessous de la partie supérieure du plénum afin d assurer un bon mélange de l air. Lorsqu un MAUVAIS raccord est doté d une connexion coudée, assurez-vous qu il est installé de manière à permettre un bon débit DÉBIT D AIR d air. INSTALLATION : Quelle que soit la surface, commencez par indiquer avec un marqueur la dimension de l ouverture du collet. Ensuite, percez la surface du métal à l aide d une perceuse ou d un outil tranchant et utilisez des pinces pour couper l ouverture. Puis, insérez le collet dans l ouverture et repliez les languettes vers l intérieur. Finalement, fixez à l aide de vis à tôle et scellez avec du ruban à conduits.

24 page 4 Tuyau de métal rond Gaine rectangulaire Les tuyaux ronds conviennent comme conduit principal, embranchement ou encore pour la reprise de l air. Ils possèdent les caractéristiques de débit d air les plus efficaces et sont utilisés à l échelle du pays. On utilise également les tuyaux ronds en conjonction avec des produits tels des hottes de cuisinière, des sécheuses, des ventilateurs extracteurs de salle de bain et des chauffe-eau. Les tuyaux ronds sont habituellement expédiés en lots parce qu ils s emboîtent très bien. On peut se procurer différents types d assemblage comme le bouton-pression ou l enclenchement. Don Park Inc. utilise l assemblage par enclenchement, qui assure une fixation stable en plus de faciliter l assemblage. Tableau des dimensions couramment employées : UTILISATION PRINCIPALE: utilisée en tant que tronçon de conduit principal de système. On utilise la gaine rectangulaire de la même façon qu un tuyau rond dans les tronçons principaux. Comme pour les tuyaux ronds, les gaines rectangulaires se raccordent d abord au plénum à l aide d un collet ou d une prise de départ. Les dimensions offertes s installent facilement à n importe quel côté du plénum. (8" x 8"), (8" x 10"), (8" x 12"), (8" x 14"), (8" x 16"), (8" x 18"), (8" x 20") et (8" x 22"). On peut utiliser des gaines rectangulaires comme gagne-place. Elles passent facilement dans les espaces en hauteur, entre les solives de plancher ou dans les greniers. Habituellement, les gaines rectangulaires ne déplacent pas l air directement vers une sortie. Au lieu, des embranchements sortent du tracé principal dans le but de déplacer l air jusqu à sa destination. Normalement, on effectue ceci à l aide d un collet ou d une prise de départ et d un tuyau rond ou d un conduit flexible. Pour ce faire, il faut obstruer les extrémités de la gaine rectangulaire à l aide d un chapeau de gaine rectangulaire. Au cours de l assemblage, les pièces en L sont reliées à l aide de différentes méthodes. La gaine rectangulaire est reliée par un système par enclenchement. Ensuite, ces sections de cinq pieds sont assemblées à l aide de clavettes en «S» et de joints en coulisse pour former des tronçons de gaines plus longs. UTILISATION DIMENSIONS EMPLOYÉES LES PLUS COMMUNES Chauffage et climatisation 4" -16" Ventilateurs de salle de bain 3" - 4" Hottes de cuisinière 5" - 7" Sécheuses 3" - 4" Chauffe-eau 3" - 4" Les clavettes en «S» et les joints en coulisses sont des manchons de métal qui aident à assembler les côtés supérieurs et inférieurs («S») ainsi que les côtés gauches et droits (joint en coulisse) du tracé des gaines. Les joints en coulisse sont habituellement 2" plus longs que la section à être fixée. Le 1" supplémentaire de chaque côté doit être replié pour bien fixer. JOINT EN COULISSE CLAVETTE EN «S» * Consultez les codes du bâtiment locaux. Dans certains cas, seuls les tuyaux à paroi double peuvent être utilisés pour ventiler ce produit. Il faut toujours utiliser un tuyau à paroi double lorsque vous traversez un mur ou un grenier. NOTE : Nous parlons de la gaine verticale ou montante rectangulaire à la page 16 (cette section). On utilise la gaine verticale entre les tronçons muraux pour acheminer l air vers le haut ou vers le bas d un mur ou jusqu au deuxième ou troisième étage d une maison. On l utilise également pour installer les hottes de cuisinière. (Consultez la section Autres utilisations à la page 33). La gaine verticale ou montante mesure 3¼" ou 2¼" afin d assurer un bon espacement dans un colombage de 2 x 4. Il est également possible d utiliser des tuyaux et des raccords ovales au lieu d une gaine verticale. Don Park Inc. offre des longueurs de 100 pouces de pièces ovales pour les utilisations sur deux étages. Un tuyau ovale est doté du système «par enclenchement» semblable aux tuyaux ronds.